Beer Drinking Lion






American Beer: We've Come a Long Way

On the morning of September 11, I was sitting in a motel room in Connecticut, coffee in hand, maps spread out on the table, planning a day on the road.

Then the unthinkable happened.

I watched in disbelief as the World Trade Center, which I'd seen from my window as a kid growing up in New Jersey, collapsed in a cloud of dust. Stunned, I packed my bags, stuffed them in the trunk, and went straight home.

With America's travel plans put on hold, I wandered through the journals I'd kept over the years. One of them contained the notes from my first full-fledged beer tour, a trip through Northern California in October 1993.

Let's take a look together:

Winchester Brewing, San Jose...Picked up a copy of Celebrator, available at the door.

Today, Celebrator Beer News needs no introduction. In 1993, it was the indispensable tool for planning a western beer tour. Trouble was, it could only be found in a relative handful of establishments, none of which were within a thousand miles of my home. Celebrator Beer News has since inspired similar publications across America. Wherever you travel, you'll find regional "brewspapers," free of charge, in bars and liquor stores.

In addition to brewspapers, there are dozens of websites to help you find interesting beers and new surroundings in which to try them. They'll lead you to pubs and breweries, festivals, commentary from the world's best writers...everything to let you know "what's brewing."

(Name withheld)...All their beers were brewed from extract...The brewer's son sat at an empty bar, pasting labels on bottles.

It was sad to see a family struggle to keep a dream alive, sadder still to realize their business wasn't going to make it. Extract pubs? It's hard to believe were any. They've fallen by the wayside; in brewing, the bar--pardon the pun--has been raised. Brewpubs can no longer get by on novelty alone; it takes well-made--and interesting--beer to keep people coming back.

San Andreas Brewing, Hollister...The six-tap lineup included apricot ale. Marin Brewing, Larkspur...Both raspberry and blueberry ale were on the beer menu.

There was a time when a brewpub's beer selection was predictable: a pale ale or amber, a stout or porter, perhaps a lager. A few intrepid brewers experimented with fruit beers, and a lucky few managed to get it right. The first wheat beers I'd tasted were hit-or-miss, but they got more consistent as time went on.

These days, it's not unusual to find the brewmaster trying his–and, increasingly, her--hand at trickier styles: Belgian dubbels, German altbiers and Kölsches, winter warmers of all kinds. The result: better beer, and a wider variety of styles, at brewpubs and craft breweries alike.

Triple Rock Brewery & Alehouse, Berkeley...Had a hard time choosing which sandwich to order. Tied House, San Jose...Looked more like an upscale restaurant than a bar.

>Nowadays, we take it for granted that a brewpub will offer good food. Some have lured award-winning chefs; there are even pubs where gourmet food has become as big a draw as hand-crafted beer. "Brewer's dinners," which pair four or five courses with the brewmaster's best ales, have become a regular event in many establishments.

Seabright Brewery, Santa Cruz...Samplers were available, so I ordered one.

Nowadays, the brewpub that doesn't have beer samplers is the exception. In many pubs, the bartender will offer you a taste of the seasonal ale, or perhaps something the brewmaster is thinking of adding. At the better alehouses, staff are proud of the local beer, and knowledgeable as well; their recommendations are almost invariably worth following. Some establishments have made sampling an event in itself, offering a range of beers of a particular style and providing information about them.

Wednesday night: call airline and reconfirm flights.

It's no longer necessary to hop a plane to the West Coast to enjoy good beer. Brewpubs are found just about everywhere; if there isn't one near you, chances are there's one on the drawing board. And craft breweries across America are offering their interpretations of traditional Old and New World styles. You'll find them on store shelves from Maine to Oregon. Wherever you travel, even if it's to the other end of the state, try the local product; you might fall in love with a new style of beer.

While there's good beer in your neighborhood, the best experiences are still to be found on the road: sipping a leisurely pint while reading the paper in a Seattle alehouse; watching a Hawaiian sunset over beer and snacks, and forgetting it's February; finding common ground at a beer festival with an alum of the school whose teams you grew up hating.

I reread my notes from 1993 at a sad and ugly time, but they still provided a needed lift. They made me realize that American beer has gotten better--a whole lot better--in a few short years. But more importantly, they reminded me how easy it is to take life's little pleasures for granted...and to forget how much we all have in common.

This article originally appeared on Suite101.com in October 2001.

 

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