Ann Arbor got its first brewpub, Arbor Brewing Company (114 East Washington Street; 734-213-1993), in the summer of 1994. Its owners, Matt and Rene Greff, aimed to create a true pub–a place where the entire family can have a good time. By every measure, they've succeeded; Arbor Brewing has even been voted "Best Brewpub in the Midwest" by its peers.

The Greffs, like many brewpub owners, started out as homebrewers. So it's hardly surprising that they serve beers rarely found on tap. One of these is Big Ben House Mild, a golden-colored ale with a hint of fruit. Even though mild ale is a classic style in Britain, it has fallen out of favor on account of its working-stiff image. Another beer worth trying is Old #22 German Alt, a dark, malty ale that compares favorably to the Altbier served in Düsseldorf, Germany. There's something for Real Ale lovers, too: a cask-conditioned India pale ale.

Apropos for a college town, Arbor Brewing offers a continuing education program in the form of monthly beer tastings. Each has a different theme (Maibock, for instance); 15 to 30 examples are served, along with appetizers. Attendees receive a program with information on the style and tasting notes on each beer.

Grizzly Peak Brewing Company (120 West Washington Street; 734-741-7325) is part of a brewpub family with a winning formula: high-class pub grub and hand-crafted ale. The pub was once the site of the Old German, a restaurant whose passing is still mourned. It's still a popular dinner destination in its own right. Amid brick walls and breweriana, diners enjoy dishes ranging from wild mushroom pasta and pretzel-crusted pork scaloppine to wood-fired pizzas. Holidays such as New Year's and Father's Day are observed with special brewer's dinners, featuring multiple courses--each paired with a Grizzly Peak ale. Some of the ales come from the brewmaster's private reserve.

Grizzly Peak is more than a restaurant that happens to serve beer. Five beers--all of them ales--have been on tap since the brewpub opened: Victors Golden Ale, Grizzly Peak Pale Ale, Steelhead Red, Bear Paw Porter, and County Cork Irish Stout. They're joined by a rotation of specialty ales poured from the "sixth tap." Two cask-conditioned selections--Extra Special Bitter and the seasonal "brewer's choice"–are available as well.

At Leopold Brothers of Ann Arbor (523 South Main Street; 734-747-9806), the newest brewpub in town, "Think Globally, Drink Locally" is more than just a slogan. Brewmaster Todd Leopold and his brother Scott proudly claim theirs is the world's first "ecobrewery." They recycle the spent grains--and even the heat, water, and carbon dioxide--from the brewing process. These by-products are used to grow organic produce in an on-premises greenhouse. Glass windows behind the taproom give customers a look at what's growing.

The food selection at Leopold Brothers is simple: grilled items like chicken sandwiches and bratwurst; pretzels; chips and salsa. If you're hankering for a slab of ribs or a pizza, don't despair: it's okay to bring in your own food, or even order it from someplace else. There's live musical entertainment in the evenings, and a cabinet full of classic board games like Sorry and Clue.

Leopold Brothers' decor reflects a mix of styles–it's a German beer hall, with British pub furnishings and West Coast alehouse touches thrown in. As for the beers themselves, they're all German-style, and strictly organic. The selections include Pilsner, Hefeweizen, Schwarzbier (a rich, Bavarian-style black beer), Bohemian, red lager, and Radler, a mixture of wheat beer and lemonade that's popular in Germany in the summer.

It's an unassuming little place, but Ashley's Restaurant and Pub (338 South State Street; 734-996-9191) offers an eye-popping beer selection. This campus-area pub calls itself "Michigan's premier multi-tap," and backs that claim up by offering 64 draft beers–18 from in-state breweries. Don't fret if your first choice isn't available; there are other beers of the same style to choose from. Ashley's also has an extensive selection of bottled beers from North America, Belgium, and the British Isles.

If you're not sure what to order, or unfamiliar with the Michigan beers on the menu, Ashley's assigns each one a "Flavor Rating." It's a subjective evaluation of overall flavor, body, bitterness, and finish on a scale of zero (a nonalcoholic brew, perhaps?) to nine (think vintage barleywine).

I hope you'll pay a visit to Ann Arbor this summer. If you're coming by car, avoid no-parking zones like the plague and don't forget to feed the meters. Otherwise you'll discover why our city's welcome wagon is a tow truck.

This article originally appeared on Suite101.com in May 2001.