Ann Arbor, Michigan, in my student days, ranked number one in the nation in per-capita Molson consumption. That was back in the 1970s, before the craft-brewing revolution got under way.

Since then, I've done a great deal of traveling, much of it in search of new and interesting beer. I'd like to show you around, filling you in on the history and culture of some beers that I like and the places where they're brewed and enjoyed.

The first stop on our tour is my favorite summertime destination: Toronto, Ontario. It's only a five-hour drive from my home, give or take a few construction barrels. Every year, I fit in at least one long weekend there, roaming through the city's museum and catching a Blue Jays game at SkyDome.

Of course, I come from the beer, too. Toronto's better establishments serve Ontario craft beers, few of which are found south of the border. The area's small breweries include Black Oak, Church Key, Creemore Springs, Kawartha Lakes, Scotch-Irish, and Wellington County. They've recently been joined by Toronto's own Steam Whistle Lager, produced by veterans of the Upper Canada Brewing Company. It's a perfect beer for sunny summer afternoons.

Weather permitting, which is usually the case in the summer, beer is best enjoyed al fresco. The season is short, but the evenings are long and warm. On a weekend night, it seems as though entire neighborhoods spill into the outdoor cafés.

Toronto Stops of Choice

More often than not, my first stop is The Rebel House (1068 Yonge Street). It's named for an 1837 uprising against the Crown. According to legend, a skirmish in that short-lived revolt occurred close by. Consistently rated one of the city's best pubs, The Rebel House has a "Cheers"-like atmosphere, especially around the tiny first-floor bar where the regulars gather. I prefer the back patio, where I unwind from the trek up Highway 401 with a pint of hoppy ale and some excellent Canadian tavern food. I've promised myself that this will be the year I tackle a meal-size portion of poutine, a plate of French fries mixed with cheese curds and covered with gravy. Invented in Quebec, the dish has achieved cult status across Canada.

Another favorite patio of mine is at Allen's (143 Danforth Avenue). It's guarded by three huge, century-old willow trees that keep out the summer sun and city noise, making it possible to carry on a conversation, which soon turns to what beer to order. A blackboard lists the many beers on tap, and there are dozens more in bottles. The patio is also home to a barbecue grill that works nonstop evenings and weekends. Locals are so fond of the grilled foods that they've voted Allen's the best place in town for outdoor dining. Despite its location in the middle of Greektown, it's an enclave of Irish culture, complete with Celtic entertainers. There's a bit of New York City ambience, too. Before coming to Canada, one of Allen's founders worked at the legendary P.J. Clarke's, which explains why the interior is so reminiscent of Manhattan's ubiquitous Irish bars.

When darkness starts to descend on the city, I'm left in a quandary. Some nights, the mood is right for the reunion-like atmosphere of the Madison Avenue Pub (14 Madison Avenue, near Bloor Street). It started life as a basement pub, but has since gobbled up two adjacent Victorian buildings, with too many barrooms to count and five large patios. On one July day, I was greeted by a sign that proclaimed, "All Patios Open Due to Stunning Weather." Although students from the nearby University of Toronto are gone for the summer, the locals more than make up for their absence. While the "Maddy" doesn't have a wide beer selection, it's the ideal place to get acquainted with Creemore Springs Premium Lager, a flavorful brew from "Cottage Country."

Smoke-Free and A-C

When I'm in a beer-hunting frame of mind, I head for downtown and Smokeless Joe's (125 John Street). Smoke-free bars aren't a novelty in Toronto, and a different Joe now runs the place, but little else has changed. More than 250 bottled beers, including hard-to-find Belgians and almost the entire line of Rogue Ales, stay cool inside Joe's refrigerator. Six Ontario micros are on tap, including a hand pump selection. The interior is tiny but immaculate. There's a blackboard announcing "New Stuff", oysters on crushed ice, and an air-conditioner strong enough for the muggiest of nights. I prefer to settle back on a high, wicker-backed chair on the front patio and watch the people heading out for a night of dancing.

If the weather turns foul, or if I just need to cool off, there are plenty of alternatives. High on the list is the Bow and Arrow (1954 Yonge Street). In a city dotted with British-style pubs, this is one of the most authentic. The decor includes a wooden U-shaped bar, turn-of-the-century wainscoting, and flower boxes underneath the windows. All that's missing are some fruit machines. It was here, sitting at the alcove table next to the window, that I had my first cask-conditioned ale in Canada: Arkell Best Bitter.

The Bow and Arrow is committed to supporting local suppliers, which means Ontario food as well as beer are on the menu. My favorite snack is a bowl of maple chili, made with ground bison meat. On some weekend evenings, there's an extra treat: fiddlers from Cape Breton, a pleasant, foot-tapping accompaniment to a pint or two.

A must for visiting beer mavens is C'est What? (67 Front Street East), a quirky downstairs pub just outside the tourist zone. Most of the 29 tap selections are devoted to Ontario micros. It's also a small-batch brewpub, whose regular lineup includes the popular Hemp Ale ("enjoy it, don't inhale it"), Coffee Porter, and whatever the brewmaster is tinkering with. My favorite is the Mild Brown Ale, C'est What's variation on a British mild. It's good for keeping one's head while playing board games, which the staff thoughtfully provides. C'est What? shares quarters with an nightclub where Jewel and The Barenaked Ladies once appeared on their way to stardom. And rumor has it that an expansion--along with a wider beer selection--is in the works.

Granite With a British Accent

Another Toronto brewpub, which many consider the city's best, is the Granite Brewery (140 Eglinton Avenue East). This western outpost of the original brewery in Halifax offers an all-ale lineup: a Best Bitter and a dry-hopped "special" version (also available from the cask); a blonde ale, with or without raspberry flavor; an Irish stout; and a summer seasonal. Those are served in a cozy British-accented bar area complete with fireplace and book-lined walls. Since man does not live by beer alone, there are three dining rooms in back where the brew kettles and Hogarth's "Gin Lane" and "Beer Street" etchings can be found. Granite serves brunch on weekends and holidays, and there are special brewer's dinners featuring guest micros.

Postscript: Toronto beer lovers were shocked by the recent closing of Denison's, a downtown brewpub with connections to Bavaria's royal family. It's a reminder that Ontario can be a tough environment for small breweries and a good reason to "drink locally" while in town.

All About Beer magazine, Volume 24, no. 4, September 2003.